Faial is the most cosmopolitan of the central Azores islands and also one of the most beautiful with its gently sloping pastureland that gives way to steeper hills atop which sits the main volcanic crater that dominates the island. The natural landscape is unspoilt and the undersea volcanic caves hide shoals of colorful fish. On Faial, you can enjoy a lively, activity filled holiday in addition to discovering the delights of Horta, a vibrant city renowned for its whitewashed houses.
Faial experienced the most recent major volcanic activity in the Azores when Capelinhos erupted (1957-58), adding seven miles of land to the island. Today, you can visit the site and marvel at the power of the eruption which engulfed a whole village in 16 feet of volcanic ash. This area, resembling the surface of the moon, sits in stark contrast to the hydrangea lined lanes of the rest of the island.
Faial is famed for its marlin fishing and is a favorite port of call for international yacht crews crossing the Atlantic. A four mile channel separates the islands of Faial and Pico. Horta is the nearest village to Pico and is Faial’s capital. It is the liveliest and most eye-catching town in the Azores. A haven for sailors and whale watchers, it is filled with colorful yachts which stop here during their voyage across the Atlantic. The bustling international atmosphere is characteristic of Horta. Over a beer or coffee, yachtsmen, visitors and locals alike share stories of their dreams and adventures.
Cycling around Faial is wonderful as the lanes are bordered by enormous hydrangea hedges and cascading of trails of roses. You can also walk along the spectacular crater rim and peer down at the crater floor 1000 feet below. The highlight for many visitors to Faial is the superb whale and dolphin watching from Horta.
Getting To and Around Faial
Regular flights link Lisbon to Faial and flights take about 2 hours. SATA, the regional airline, flies daily to Horta from S. Miguel and Terceira. A few different ferries connect Horta with Sao Jorge and Pico. The duration of the journey can depend upon the company used. Horta is also a port of call for a ship that carries passengers and cargo between the Portuguese mainland and the islands. Rental cars, taxis and local bus lines are all options for getting around the island. The main bus stop in Horta is at Avenida Marginal. Minibuses cover the central area of Horta and their routes are displayed on the map.
Places to Stay
Hotel do Canal – Overlooking the narrow straight between Faial and Pico, Hotel Do Canal sits on an oceanfront avenue in the historic area of the capital of Faial and is approximately seven miles from Horta Airport. The location is also close to the Pico ferry departure point, yacht marina, and the famous Peter’s Cafe Sport. Faial, one of Portugal’s nine isles, has a history of sheltering American whaling ships and ocean-crossing sailors. Hotel amenities include a restaurant, cocktail lounge, exercise room, Jacuzzi, Turkish bath, sauna and massage treatments.
Pousada da Horta, Forte de Santa Cruz – Overlooking Horta Bay, the Pousada da Horta, Forte de Santa Cruz, is a historic Horta hotel on Faial Island in the Azores archipelago. Situated next to Horta’s marina, the hotel enjoys a magnificent view of Pico Island and is a great destination for walking or cycling holidays as well as horse riding, whale and dolphin watching, and diving excursions. The Pousada Forte de Santa Cruz has a fascinating history which is sure to make a stay in this Faial hotel feel a little out of the ordinary.
Casa do Moinho – Casa do Moinho is a spacious windmill property with a garden and a view of the sea. This vacation home is notable for its natural comforts. It is quietly located on a large property with a windmill. Cozy nooks of solitude, tropical trees and a grill area are all located within this one square mile of land which also has a fantastic view of the Atlantic and the neighboring islands. Beautiful hiking paths into the park-like surroundings start right by the house.
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Highlights:
Sport Fishing – The coast of Faial Island offers amazing fishing grounds, some of which are locally marked. There are opportunities to hook sea bream, wrasse, grouper, mackerel, axillary sea bream, porgy, bluefish, barracuda, saw fish and more. Take a boat and try some big game fishing. Blue marlin, shark and tuna are found in abundance.
Monte do Guia – A visit to Monte do Guia and a climb to the Chapel offer a spectacular views of Faial and Pico. Climb down to Porto Paim and a bay with a wonderful beach and calm blue ocean water awaits you. (Mount Guia and Mount Queimado were classified in 1980 as protected countryside due to their botanical and landscape characteristics).
Carneiro – A trip to Mount Carneiro is definitely worthwhile. From here one can observe the exquisite landscape of the green Flamengo Valley, the city of Horta and the island of Pico.
Espalamaca – The ascent to Espalamaca offers a beautiful view of the valley from a different angle. A dazzling display awaits the viewer who climbs towards the center of the island. The Caldeira do Faial, a veritable cathedral of silence and beauty, is the vast crater of the extinct volcano from which the island originated. The Caldeira do Faial was classified as a Natural Reserve due to its valuable endemic vegetation and unique landscape.
Food and Drink
The abundance of seafood makes for tasty fish chowders and shellfish dishes. The sausage, fish fillets, stewed octopus and “molha de carne” are local delicacies that you should taste accompanied by the marvelous local wines.
No visit to Horta would be complete without a stop at the Peter’s Cafe Sport, the most famous bar in the North Atlantic. Having first opened its doors on Christmas Day 1918, the Café Sport started life as just another bar in the busy port and city of Horta. It was in the 1950s that the yachts began to visit Faial and the Café Sport began to build its unique reputation. The Café Sport, or Peter’s, as it is better known, has witnessed a continuous parade of the world’s best sailors and many international celebrities.
Culture & Festivities
There are several secular and religious festivals that make up the calendar of events on Faial. The most important ones occur in the summer. From Ascension Day until August, the feasts of the Holy Spirit are major events in each parish and neighborhood. During these events, a procession and cortege will travel to the local church where a mass (and crowning) will occur in conformity with the tradition/legend of Saint Elizabeth of Portugal. Following the mass, the procession will return to the local império where a feast of meat broth and soup is served to the invited guests, and the same soup and massa sovada (sweet bread) is handed out as a traditional sign of penitence. On Faial, generally, these feasts are by invitation, whereas on other islands, public events occur.
The patron saint of Faial is Saint John who is celebrated as São João da Caldeira on June 24. This is a day celebrated with a mass at the Chapel of São João, and followed by family picnics along the roadways and fields of the Caldera. Similarly, in Largo Jaime Melo in Horta, people gather from around the island to enjoy picnics and other diversions such as band music and singers.
On August 1, the faithful celebrate the annual feast of Nossa Senhora da Guia, a celebration originally started by local fishermen in the name of the Virgin Mary. A flotilla of small boats with one carrying the statue of the Virgin arrives in the harbor at Port Pim. From there, following benedictions, the statue is taken in procession to the top of Monte da Guia, where a mass is celebrated at the chapel of Monte da Guia.
The most important festival of the Faialense calendar is the secular Semana do Mar, or Week of the Sea. It is a week-long celebration in Horta of Faial’s link to the sea, celebrated in song, dance, exhibitions and kiosks selling different foods (local and from mainland Portugal) and goods. During the day, there are several sailing competitions and exhibits. In the evening, many will sample foods along the Avenida Marginal while others will listen and dance to popular and traditional musical acts on any of the several stages devoted to both traditional and contemporary artists. The events culminate with a traditional closing ceremony and fireworks display.
